She was once hated: the wild, deep gorge carved out by the Hinter Rhine was called the “Evil Road” by mule drivers. Today, visitors are drawn to the spectacular expanse of water and rock.

The Viamala Gorge lies between Thusis and Andeer and was carved into the massive rocks by glacial ice and the water of the Hinter Rhine many years ago. The rocks, which soar to heights of 300 metres, form the Viamala (“Via mala” is Romansh for “evil road”). Despite its narrow confines, the risk of falling rocks and treacherous waters, the gorge offered mule drivers and travellers the most direct access to the Alpine passes of Splügen and San Bernardino. Later, towards the end of the 19th century, philosophers and writers such as Nietzsche and Fontane visited the gorge and were fascinated by the natural spectacle.

Access to the gorge has been via a visitor centre and stairway since 1903. A few years later, a bold project took place to build a tunnel which was blasted into the rock face and still leads visitors to the visitor platform today. Equipped with a treasure map, children can discover the gorge and its fascinating history and search for the treasure of the Viamala. If you enjoy hiking, you can follow the old ViaSpluga pack mule track starting in Thusis. The classic among long-distance hikes leads through the Viamala Gorge and Roffla Gorge and across stony paths over the Splügen Pass to Chiavenna in Italy. The 65-kilometre ViaSpluga is usually covered in four one-day stages.

Getting there: Take the PostBus from Thusis to “Zillis, Viamala Schlucht”, travel by FlixBus, by car or on foot.