During the Middle Ages, the Gemmi Pass was one of the most important links for goods and people travelling between the Bernese Oberland and Valais. These days, the mule track across the Alpine plateau is an exciting hiking trail – even in winter. The cable car from Kandersteg to Sunnbüel covers the first 700 metres of ascent in just 10 minutes. Here, at the tree line, at 1,200 metres above sea level, the four-hour winter hike begins. It passes through the broad basin of the Spittelmatte and, in a short ascent taking about 30 minutes, climbs to the Schwarenbach mountain hotel.

Originally built as a customs post in 1742, this establishment has hosted celebrated figures such as Mark Twain, Lenin and Pablo Picasso. Even the exterior of the Schwarenbach is impressive, bringing history to life. After some light refreshments, continue up the sunny side of the valley until a wide area opens up – the frozen, snow-covered Daubensee lake at 2,200 metres above sea level. If you have enough power in your legs you can complete the last 100 metres of the ascent on foot. Alternatively, the 8-person gondola will whisk exhausted hikers up to the Gemmi Pass, the final destination for this route and a spectacular lookout point.

With a bit of luck, you might even spot a bearded vulture flying overhead at the pass. These raptors have re-established themselves here in recent years, and the opportunities to observe them are unrivalled anywhere in Europe.